Asian Journal- The Filipino-American Community Newspaper

MANILA - It started with a text message from artist-chef and fellow half-kabalen (from my matrilineal Kapampangan side) Claude Tayag. The message was deceivingly simple: “A US-based TV host is doing a shoot in the Philippines. I would like you to show him around Manila.”Now showing someone around my city is something that I take to as naturally as fish to water. For more than three years now, I have been the main face and feet behind Old Manila Walks, a tour outfit that has taken countless numbers of enthusiasts chomping down Chinatown’s hidden alleys, poking around the Presidential Palace’s halls and discovering architectural gems inside a cemetery. For me, Manila is one big cultural smorgasbord and needs to dug into to savor her delights.

“It’s Anthony Bourdain,” Claude spills a few days later. Ok, so I know he’s a chef, and I saw him on television—but what I didn’t realize was how big his cult following is in this part of the world, until I walked with him in Manila.

The instructions from producer Jared Andrukanis were clear-cut and simple: for the show No Reservations Philippines, the Manila segment was to be as local as possible. No frills. No fine dining. Just the real deal best summed up in his own words, “gritty but tasty.” “Great,” I thought, Manila is a gritty place so that takes one off the list. Now I just have to take care of the tasty part.

So what constitutes a very Manila dining experience? For me it has to have variety, a fusion, a mishmash of various ingredients from our indigenous Malay (in all its sub-categorical forms, Tagalog, Kapampangan, Ilokano Bikolano, Bisaya, etc.) to the ones brought in by our historical contacts, the Chinese and the Hispanic—all flavors thoroughly mixed up on one delicious plate that is quintessentially Filipino. Think of eats at a typical fiesta spread: Pansit side-by-side with lechon, callos swimming in tomato sauce with finely chopped sisig. An endless supply of soy sauce and soda-marinated barbequed pork skewered on a bamboo stick. All the beer you can drink. Karaoke music in full blast! And finally, all these food spiced up with our people’s infectious happy spirit. To me, this defines my city’s dining experience, and this is what I highlight in any media shoot.

I came up with a list of places and restaurants that fit the required theme; places that I thought would look visually appealing while showcasing the flavors of Manila and Filipino cuisine to curious viewers. Only three places on my list were approved: Binondo, dampa and a tapsilogan. Short though it was, I felt all three places were strongly representative of Manila’s dining culture, while fitting the prescribed “gritty yet tasty” category. Quiapo was canceled due to time constraints; the Salcedo weekend market was crossed out because of the complicated logistics of filming “too many stalls in one day.” Finally, a pares-mami joint was edited out because I think it had to be shot too early at dawn.

I met up with Tony on a hot and humid Saturday morning. At about 6’5”, he has an imposing physical presence. We began our walk around Binondo. If ever there is a place built for walking and sustenance at the same time, it has to be old Chinatown. Not only is it a culinary paradise, but visually, the streets burst with local color and nuances of everyday street life. This corner of Manila is eye candy made from the city’s rich melting pot of people and cultures. In a market alley, Tony becomes the quintessential Caucasian tourist. Many would call out, “Hey Joe, here, here!” (complete with Cory-sign-framing-the-face pose). But some did recognize him. One lady’s jaw literally dropped in shock when she saw Tony coming out of the restaurant. Even a security guard from a grocery store recognized him “as the guy from that food show.” I would find out later that as word spread that Tony was in Manila, many geared up for Anthony Bourdain sightings. I was told of some folks who even camped out at his hotel just to get a glimpse of this alpha chef. I also know of people who drove all the way to Pampanga—one of the many shoot locations —the day before, just to catch sight of (and possibly have their books signed) by him. No wonder local fixer Rich Alindogan called me hours before the shoot, asking if I was coming by myself. Bourdain was prized meat and everybody wanted a bite of him.