MANILA - Traveling farther down Tawi-Tawi, the country’s southernmost province, one reaches a historic island named Simunol—quiet, solitary and never usually in a tourist’s itinerary.
Simunol is a speck off the capital town of Bongao, inhabited by peaceful Muslims blessed by the sea’s bounty. Its contribution, however, to the rich history of Islam and the colorful culture of Muslim Filipinos is immense and profound.
Islam was introduced in Simunol in 1380 A.D., way long before the Philippines was discovered by the Spanish conquistadores.
Adventure
Getting there is half the adventure. The only jump-off point is the unimaginably busy Chinese wharf in Bongao. After confusing translations, funny paralinguistic signals and hard bargaining skills, one gets ready for a first-hand experience of the Samas’ seafaring skills honed by lifelong affairs with the Sulu Sea.
Crossing the unknown, silent and vast waters on a small, motorized banca may be one’s most daring challenges. But there are no one-eyed pirates and swelling waves; the feeling of solitude while sailing smoothly by a rosary of white sand islets is priceless.
Arabic chant
Approaching Tubig Indangan in Simunol, a hypnotic experience starts to unfold as the high-pitched Arabic chant welcomes one to its white sand shore. The call for prayer comes from the 629-year-old Sheikh Makhdum Mosque, the oldest Muslim house of worship in the country.
Walking past the houses on stilts framed inland by lush greens, the song becomes fainter, but the sight of the mosque where the first words of the Prophet Mohammad were first heard is clear.
Sheikh Karin Ul Makhdum, an Arab missionary, originally erected the mosque in nipa and logs. The place went through different transformations as the number of the Muslim faithful grew.
After weathering the changes of climate, time and stories of aggressions, what are now left and enshrined under the new mosque are the four solid ipil posts carved in okir by Sama artisans. Interred in the premises is the tomb of its founder.
Best time
The best time to visit is Nov. 6-7, when Bongao celebrates the anniversary of the mosque with the “kinakan” (food festival) and a rare chance to see the locals charm visitors with the “pangalay” (dance form).
This cultural effort of promoting the colors of the island is part of the Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao’s Ziarah Simunol (Visit Simunol).
As Islam takes on a radically different world-view, an introspective walk-through with the imam (high priest) is a humbling experience. It is fascinating to learn more of its history and how it spread as far as Luzon.
Understanding the power of the Islamic Sultanate of Sulu and its diverse people widens one’s perspective of how they helped shape the nation. It is moving to hear its wisdom on faith and life, of understanding and tolerance. Nothing but wishes of peace and love whispered on a breezy island.
Experience Simunol.
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