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| The Vigan You Never Knew—Chavit’s ‘Baluarte’ (Part 5 of 7: A Case for Coming Home …) |
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"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."
— Mark Twain
VIGAN has plenty of other points of interest to offer. Go see Chavit Singson’s "Baluarte" or "fortress" —it’s name emblazoned on a rise for all to see. As of this writing, Chavit has a collection of exotic animal which include about nine tigers and a lion, ostriches, deer, a yellow snake, ducks, a stable full of miniature horses and on the softer, gentler side, a butterly garden of over 500 varieties. It’s open to the public and there are no entrance fees at this time. All you need do is to tip the guides generously for the time and trouble it takes to bring you around. Be warned that not everyone is given the privilege of touring the innards of his private house. Chavit was coming in, perhaps by chopper, the afternoon of my visit and I would be long gone by then. It’s a selective process and largely the luck of the draw. The grapevine tells me that occasionally, the man, if he is in the mood, conducts the tour himself. I suppose that depending on the timing, the volume of the crowds and how you come across to the guide on the day you visit, you may be given the chance to explore Chavit’s Baluarte, which is appropriately named. It is sits atop a strategic high point of Vigan real estate, that can give advance warning of the approach of enemies from the ground and air, in times of war while affording a magnificent nearly 180 degree view of the horizon where the sky and the South China Sea merge and meet seamlessly in deep shades of shimmering blue during quiet times.
Chavit’s house sits on a bluff and can be accessed by stairs carved in stone from the reception area where Aries, our guide, gave us a comprehensive tour of Baluarte and its features. There’s a lot of thought that went into this house and it shows. Chavit Singson is the colorful, controversial self-proclaimed "Tiger of Ilocos" and two color photo cut-outs of Chavit cuddling with two of his pet tigers meant to greet visitors to his enclave make sure you remember that image of power, strength and wile clearly. You somehow wait and listen for the movie soundtrack of Rocky’s "Eye of the Tiger" to play off the sound system dramatically to complete the presentation. There’s nothing of the sort though. For the moment, you forget the controversy he was embroiled in, the "Jueteng gate" that helped topple one Philippine presidency years ago as you explore his lair, or come to think of it, perhaps this is just one among others. After all, a really smart tiger in a jungle full of foes, must have two strongholds at least, one public and another one, far beyond probing eyes.
The house itself is interesting, holding insights to the owner’s personality, eccentricities, taste and preferences. Its size is unimposing and its proportions just right using the principles of classic bilateral symmetry and wide open spaces. It’s glass walls allow as much light as it can take. The principles of feng shui is practiced here, or so it seems. It uses huge mahjong tiles as décor on its wrap-around glass walls while climate controlled air conditioning keeps the temperature just comfortable. A life size stuffed toy tiger sits draped atop the grand piano. A multi-gallon aquarium of exotic fish blends unobtrusively, quietly with the surroundings while a stand of black-faced computers line one side. A stack of books on a side table by the sofa on a surprisingly wide range of classical subjects give an insight to the man’s intellectual pursuits. Or it can all be for show, depending on your persuasion and perception of the man himself. The tiger is a wily creature after all that can size up its quarry with quick accuracy.
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